Weblog

Wednesday, 28 January 2009

  • Stripe Burns

    The most common kitchen injuries are the little annoying cuts on the inside of the knuckles, along with other assorted hand and knuckle scrapes. But, every chef knows about "stripe burns!" They are so common, so annoying--if you look carefully, you can see the scar of one just about a cm towards my hand. They happen over and over and over from reaching in ovens, touching the sides of grills, etc.

    I just thought I'd share my term: stripe burns.

    DSCN0739

Tuesday, 27 January 2009

  • Restaurant Opening - 2020

    I hope to retire from my engineering job that I'm just about to start in 2020, and either go back to college or open a restaurant with my younger sister, the business major who loves food. I have a radical approach to cooking--or perhaps just an engineer's approach. See, most cooks just suck, and most chefs just suck. They are not analyical problem solvers, they cannot queue things in their mind in a good way, and so on. So I have often wondered how I could find and hire overachievers in the field, and I finally came up with a method.

    Hiring would consist of a test. I'd provide ingredients, and ask the prospective chef to do all these things as quickly as possible:

    • make five gallons of soup
    • make hollandaise
    • cooks 10 racks of ribs
    • cut a top sirloin butt into steaks
    • make a cheese tray
    • make a fruit tray
    • clean a griddle
    • sharpen a knife
    • cook an omelet
    • cook a pasta dinner
    • cook a fish dinner

    Now, this might seem like a lot--but it's a trick! I expect 90% of the applicants would be disqualified instantly. See comments for the reason--but think about it just a little bit first!

    The 10% passing "the trick" would then be judged on their quality and speed.

Saturday, 24 January 2009

  • New Rules

    63. As you clean a grill, pull out the grease trap slightly so that you can see it as it fills; this also reminds you to empty it.

    64. "Throw" meatballs from hand to hand, like a baseball into a mitt. This solidifiies them.

Thursday, 08 January 2009

  • Posts, etc.

    I haven't had much time nor inspiration to post as I wind into my new second career, but I do hold the Rules of Cooking sacred and continue to try to build on them. I would love to get to 100, but sadly I think I might have to settle for 50. Perhaps I can get a book out of it someday!

    New rules:

    61. Never place a skillet or pot onto a cutting board--you'll melt or stain the board.

    62. Wearing gloves protects your hands, and that's reason enough to wear them.

Wednesday, 20 August 2008

  • Danger, Danger

    Restaurants are dangerous places. I expect I've seen some 60-70 trips to the hospital--including numerous times myself. Let me count the ways:

    1. Broken glass fileted fingertip -- eight stitches.
    2. Knife clipped fingertip -- three stitches.
    3. Smoking hot oil all over forearm -- most painful ice-bath ever!
    4. Fish bone penetrated knuckle -- very icky and infected.
    5. Plastic wrap cutter almost removed left ring finger (blood on three walls!) -- five stitches.
    6. Iron fragment off the grill got into and then rusted in my eye, and they used a dentist-type drill to remove the rust off the surface of my eye -- eye patch for 10 days.
    7. Sheet metal of reachin door goes 1.5" into my knee -- ten stitches then it blew open, then figure-eight stitches.
    8. Finger sucked into "on" slicer, which I still have nightmares about -- four stitches.

    I know there's more, but that is all I remember right now. Thankfully, the last visit was in 1994. *knocks on wood*

    People say, "Oh, you are clumsy." Well, I'm not. I just work hard, and a lot. It's part of the game.

    My point is more than to just brag about my scars. As chefs, it is our duty to do as much as we can to ensure the safety of our kitchen. Every single day--every day!--I see countless dangerous acts: people leaning over fryers; knives sticking out, or hidden knives; broken glass in unexpected places; little slick things like shrimp, tomato slices, or plastic bags on the floor; bottlenecks in the walkways, and so on.

    And you know what? Generally, no one cares. And I put forth, to be a true chef, you have to care about such things, do something about them, and at least try to educate those around you.

Tuesday, 05 August 2008

  • New Cooks

    This is from a little booklet I wrote entitled "A Guide for the Professional Cook." This illo is of a manager-in-training (Laura H for those who know her) as she learned to cook. Eventually, she would get down to where she only had about one square foot of working space. (She went on to become a fine, fine manager.)

    buried

  • My second favorite pasta revisited

    If you don't have a tomato "shark" you need one.

    1

    Remove the little butts.

    2

    Cut in half and deseed (gently roll them like you'd squeeze a lemon):

    3

    Dice 'em up. Also chop garlic, chiffanade fresh basil, and crush some black olives:

    4

    Toss your garlic in hot EVOO:

    5

    Brown it:

    6

    Quench it with broth:

    7

    Add your tomatoes:

    8

    Simmer about five minutes:

    9

    Add everything else, S&P to taste:

    91

    Add your precooked, dry pasta:

    92

    Simmer and stir a while:

    93

    Serve with a little cheese on top!

    94

Tuesday, 29 July 2008

  • Ninety-percenters

    We are taught in school that 90% is good, or in fact, excellent. But 90%-ers are the standard and the bane of the restaurant industry.

    90%-ers:

    • By definition, do 90% of their job, leaving 10% for someone else to pick up.
    • Include almost everyone in the restaurant industry--managers, servers, bartenders, chefs and cooks, busboys, and dishwashers.
    • Don't stock their station well, don't restock it until it's too late, and call for help at every opportunity.
    • Force management to schedule more people--four 90%-ers leave 40% of the work they should do undone, forcing another to pick up where they left off.
    • Infuriate those who open and close by increasing their workload.
    • As you can see, seriously inflate labor cost and deflate morale.
    • Generally all think they're 110%-ers.

    The opposite of the 90%-er is the 110%-er. They are very rare--I've only known a handful in my whole 33 year career. 110%-ers:

    • Act, rather than react.
    • Tend to overstock (though not to the point of waste).
    • Take ownership of their station and job.
    • Tend to infuriate 90%-ers.
    • Leave it like they'd like it left them, even though that never happens.
    • Tend to work in the background, and only get noticed by other 110%-ers.

    I have only worked in two places that defeated the 90%-er. Of course, these were the best two places I worked. Both of these places had the same ingredient--a chef with hire/fire/raise power who worked day-in, night-out with his or her subordinates, who was a 110%-er him/herself, and who showed the 90%-er how he or she was deficient.

    As stated above, all 90%-ers think they're 110%-ers--they have to be shown. I've seen this exchange plenty of times:

    Chef: "So, are you all set up?"

    Cook: "Yes."

    Chef: "You sure?"

    Cook: "Yes."

    Chef begins to check station.

    Chef: "You need this, and you need that, and you need the other thing. How could you tell me you were set up?"

    Cook looks at the floor.

    I had a great boss once--who might just read this. I got this story secondhand about him, but it sounds true enough. He had a cook wanting to leave early, so he went up to check out his station for cleanliness.

    Boss: "So, you want to go. Are you all cleaned up?"

    Cook: "Yes."

    Boss looks around, and says: " Well, that's not clean, and that's not clean, and that's not clean."

    Cook looks at the floor.

    Boss: "Damn boy, when you take a shit, do you wipe your ass?"

    Cook looks at floor.

    Unfortunately, most kitchens run under the guidance of 90%-ers, and therefore can never really succeed. They don't exactly fail, but everything is a struggle and everyone is unhappy.

    I'm very thankful I spent almost 14 years in two places where the 90%-er could not survive. In truth, it all boils down to one man (with later reinforcement) for me, the first chef I ever worked for who left behind him a legacy of 110%-ers. His name was Seth Simmerman--what a great name for a chef, eh?

Monday, 21 July 2008

  • My second favorite pasta

    This site isn't gonna be about recipes, but I may put a few up from time to time, whenever I feel inclined to cook something good at home. This recipe/method is the basis for countless variations, and that's why I like it so much. In a restaurant, one would do things slightly different, of course, but this is the home version.

     

    The ingredients (excepting pasta, parmesan cheese, and EVOO):

     

     pasta0

     

    Precooked shrimp, red pepper, scallions, and garlic:

    pasta1

     

    Precook and cool your pasta, drain and hold. (no photo)

     

    Toss the garlic into hot EVOO:

    pasta2

     

    Saute the garlic until it’s nut brown—even a bit darker than this:

    pasta3

     

    Quench the garlic with broth:

     

     pasta4

     

    Add red peppers and scallions, simmer a minute (if using raw shrimp, add now):

    pasta5

     

    Add pasta, turn heat to high, stir/toss:

    pasta6

     

    Continue heating on high until most of broth is absorbed or reduced, add shrimp, S/P to taste:

    pasta7

     

    Take off heat, let stand 30 seconds or so, add about two tablespoons of cold butter, stir:

    pasta8

     

    Top with parm, romano, etc.

    pasta9

     

    Notes:

    • Browning the garlic changes its flavor and reduces its potency, so you can use more than you’d expect. I used roughly two tablespoons of chopped garlic for this one large serving.
    • Take the pan off the heat when you quench the garlic with broth—it can flame up if your oil is too hot.
    • Any veggies could be used, though some would be better precooked/steamed, and others would just require more time in the pan. Scallions and red peppers cook almost instantly.
    • The same goes for the protein--shrimp or scallops cook quickly, whereas you'd want to precook chicken or anything else.
    • I prefer angel hair or rotini for this pasta.
    • The butter makes the sauce. You don’t want to melt the butter—you stir it in as the pasta cools.
    • This pasta will not reheat well—it’ll just be greasy.
  • The kit

    Every chef has their kit...this is mine.

    kit

    I used to think this was all you really needed--and there's some truth to that. This is the bare minimum (and all I carried for about 15 years).

    minimum

TheKitchenDoctor

  • Visit TheKitchenDoctor's Xanga Site
    • Name: The Kitchen Doctor
    • Birthday: 11/17/1960
    • Member Since: 1/19/2008

The Kitchen Doctor

I've spent over thirty years in some great restaurants, sometimes as a chef, sometimes as an assistant, and sometimes as a cook. My expertise, beyond dealing with the food at hand, is in how kitchens run; while other chefs looked into the latest fad foods and bizarre ingredients, I was figuring out how to do it safest, fastest, and with the highest qualiity. To this date I've not worked with anyone as proficient in these matters as me.

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The Rules of Cooking ( updated 1/9/09

  1. Mise en place. (Everything in its place.)
  2. Don't ever forget rule #1.
  3. Never prep anything twice in one day. (Do it once!)
  4. Clean the top first.
  5. Don't put broken glass or loose can lids into trash cans (in case someone breaks rule #27).
  6. Mop towards you, then away over the same path--this takes any debris behind you.
  7. Never tear open a bread bag.
  8. If you have any doubt, go with the doubt. (Give it a minute more.)
  9. Break down the boxes you empty.
  10. Never catch a knife.
  11. Good kitchens run quiet.
  12. A happy kitchen is a clean kitchen.
  13. You can lose money, break even, or make money in the eyes of your boss; be the latter. (Make 'em money.)
  14. No kitchen is ever sanitized enough.
  15. Write special orders down.
  16. Give up asking "how long on _________?" as it's tiresome and gains you nothing (Tell them what you need).
  17. Kitchens fall apart when cooks discuss their wages.
  18. Never promote your best dishwasher to cook until s/he begs--you usually just lose your best dishwasher.
  19. Sweep all the floor.
  20. You're not done mopping or sweeping until the utensils are cleaned and put back into place.
  21. Squeegees are for moving water, not debris.
  22. Never wipe with a dry towel; dry towels are for holding, wet sanitizer towels are for wiping.
  23. Recycle lightly used towels by rinsing them and then storing them in bleach water.
  24. Wash fruits and veggies before you cut them, not after.
  25. Use peroxide to remove fish, garlic, or onion smell from your hands.
  26. Never clarify butter on a flame grill.
  27. Never grab or push a full trash bag on its side or bottom.
  28. Never dip into ice with anything except a metal scoop.
  29. Never swing a fryer basket across the line.
  30. Never pour a spice or seasoning directly from the container. Use a spoon, cup, or your hand; if you pour it, you'll get too much.
  31. Soapy water, hot water, and sanitizer are the only way to clean. Sprays such as windex and shine products leave residues.
  32. Finish all of one step before moving on to the next; e.g. wash all the vegies, trim all the vegies, dice all the vegies.
  33. For line-work, finish the task at hand before starting another, or you'll never finish anything. (Finish what you're doing.)
  34. Never, ever run out of non-perishable items. (It costs you more to run out!)
  35. Cool it fast.
  36. Thaw it slow and in the cooler.
  37. Never save on food cost by losing a customer.
  38. Meats "bleed" as they pass mid-rare, and "sweat" as they pass mid-well.
  39. Experienced cooks learn to catch with their knees. (Nothing hits the floor.)
  40. Cooks with dirty aprons and shirts are not working correctly.
  41. Never use--or especially sharpen--another cook's knife. (Don't use their stuff.)
  42. Don't let the customers see you eating on the line--it's really tacky.
  43. "What do you need?" should be your primary question.
  44. Before you leave, you should: 1) let people know, and 2) ask if they need anything. To not do so is very unprofessional and downright rude.
  45. Use milk (not skim) to put out grease fires.
  46. Degreaser is horribly abused by all cooks--a little bit goes a long way. Also, degreaser is for hot or warm surfaces--on cold surfaces one is better off with ordinary soap.
  47. Never put a knife into a sink full of water, or in a bucket of water/sanitizer.
  48. Reach into drains very, very carefully!
  49. Soak or boil your wooden skewers before using them, or they'll burn on the grill like firewood.
  50. On a greasy grill or pan, flip things away from you when you can.
  51. When using a grill brick, go along the sides--don't smack into them or you'll get burned.
  52. Keep your grill bricks flat and the pores clean--rounding them makes them dangerous, less effective, and screws the next guy.
  53. Never put a knife in a bustub!
  54. Keep your cutting board clear of unnecessary items like drinks, debris, and towels.
  55. If you need lemon juice in a hurry, microwave them slightly before squeezing.
  56. Late orders #1: don't try to cook and clean at the same time--you'll only screw them both up.
  57. Late orders #2: the best solution for late orders is to get the food out really, really quickly rather than bitching and moaning about it.
  58. Add a touch of oil to your boiling water. It keeps pastas from sticking and, inn other cases, the water from boiling over.
  59. Ladel handles IN!
  60. "It was busy" is an excuse for nothing. Busy or slow, you leave things the same way.
  61. Never place a skillet or pot onto a cutting board--you'll melt or stain the board.
  62. Wearing gloves protects your hands, and that's reason enough to wear them.

More to come...